Machine for sewing shoes



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Machine for Sewing Shoes. No. 226,481.v Patented April 13,1880.

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C. P. BOSWORTH. Maohinefor Sewing Shoesl No. 226481. Patented April 13, 1880.

' 4 Sheets-Sheet 4. C. F. BOSWORTH. Machine for Sewing Shoes.

Patented April 13,1880.

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UNITED STATES PATENT CEETcE.

'CHARLES F. BOSWORTH, OF MILFOBD, CONNECTICUT.

MACHINE FOR SEWING SHOES.

SPECIFICATION formingpart of Letters Patent No. 226,481,`dated April 13, 1880.

Application filed October 26, 1878.

To all whom it may concern: A

Be it known that I, Guns. F. BoswoR'rH, of Milford, in the county of New Haven and State of Connecticut, have invented a new Improvement in Machines forv Sewing Shoes and I do hereby declare the following', when taken in connection with the accompanying drawings and the letters of reference marked thereon, to be a full, clear, and eXact descrip tion of the same, and which said drawings constitute part of this specification, and represent, in-

Figure 1, a side view of a machine embodying my invention 5 Fig. 2, a top or plan view of the same; Figs. 3 to 20, inclusive, detached views.

This invention relates to an improvementin that class of sewing-machines designed to use waxed thread, and with special reference to machines for sewing boots and shoes; and the invention consists in the con struction and combination of parts, as hereinafter described, and more particularly recited in the claims.

In the construction shown the needle is arranged to move in a horizontal plane.

A is the bed ofthe machine; B, an upright at one end, on which the needle and feeding mechanism bare arranged; B', an upright at the other end, on which the second thread-carrier and waxing mechanism are arranged.

The driving-shaft is arranged longitudinally within the bed, as indicated in broken lines, Fig. l, to which shaft power is applied through a pulley, C, or otherwise, and the shaft can also be provided with a fly-wheel, C.

Through the upright B a vertical shaft, D, (seen in broken lines, Fig. 1,) is arranged, to which shaft a rotary movement is imparted by means of beveled gears, as .also seen in broken lines, Fig. l.

On the upper end of the shaft D a rotary plate, D', is arranged, and from thisA a pitman, D2, connects with the needle-bar D3, so that as the plate D revolves a reciprocating movement is imparted to the needle. The needle movement here shown is of a peculiar character, but constitutes no part of this invention, having already been described and claimed by me in Letters Patent of the United States, dated September 17, 1867, No. 68,835.

At the opposite end and through the upright Bl a shaft, E, similar to shaft D, is arranged, and receives rotary movement by means of beveled gears from the driving-shaft, as seen in broken lines, and on the upper end of the shaft E is a plate, E', revolving with the shaft, from which plate movement is im- .through an opening, a', in the side of the race,

as seen in Fig. 3, the operation of the needle and shuttle bein-g similarto that of common needle and shuttle movements, so that the thread of the shuttle interlaces with the thread of the needle.

Adjacent to the shuttle-race is the wax-reservoir G. (See Fig. 3.) Beneath this reservoir is the heating-chamber b. The apparatus for supplying heat to the chamber b is seen in Figs. 3 and 4.

G is the reservoir or fountain supplied with water. From this a tube, G2, leads the water downward. It then passes through the pipe G3 to a coil, G4, thence continuing through lthe pipe G5 to the heating-chamber b. From the said chamber b a returning-tube, G6, leads the water back to the fountain. Beneath the coil a gas-burner or other heater, Gr, is arranged, so that the heat is applied to the coil to warm the water to any desired degree, causing it to circulate from the fount to the heating-chamber and return, thus keeping a constant circulation of hot water beneath the wax-reservoir G.

To allow the escape of steam from the chamber, should any be generated, a tube, G8, leads from thechamber outward and upward, and turns into the reservoir, as seen in Fig. 4. A

The wax is supplied to the reservoir G, and when in use is heated so as to be always in a melted condition.

Above the reservoir Gr is a longitudinal shaft, H, to which longitudinal and rotary re-A ciprocatin g movements are imparted by means as follows An eccentric or cam-shaped groove, h, is provided on the under face of the plate IOO E'. To this groove a stud, h', extends from a longitudinal slide, H', which is coupled with the shaft H by means of a stud, h2, in a spiral groove, h3.

From the shaft H a stud, h", extends upward through a slot, h5, in the guide above. (See Fig. 2.) The slot h5 terminates at the forward end in a transverse slot, h6. The result of this arrangement is, that as the slide H' is moved forward it carries with it the shaft H until said shaft H comes to the end of the longitudinal slot h5, Fig. 2; then the shaft H will be arrested, but the slide 'H' continues to move forward, and,because ofthe spiral-shaped groove h3, Fig. 3, the stud h2 will at that point imparta partial rotation to the shaft H, and on its return movement the slide H' will rst turn back the shaft H until the stud h4 leaves the transverse groove h6. It will then bring the said shaft H back to its first position, as seen in Fig. 3. The extreme advanced position of the shaft H is shown in Fig. 6, the extreme rear position shown in Fig. 3, and an intermediate position in Fig. 5. On the outer end of the shaft H is a hook, h'.

The forward movement of the shaft H occurs before the advance of the shuttle and while the needle is at its most advanced position. The needle D4 is shown in this position in Fig. 6. In this position the hook h' enters between the thread and the needle on the upper side and engages the thread, so that when said hook retreats it carries the loop of the needlethread with it over the wax-reservoir. The shuttle then passes through the loop thus held by the hook k7, and While it is thus held wax from the reservoir is applied to the thread held by the hook h7 by means of a spoon or lifter, L, which, when the shaft H advances, drops into the wax, and as it returns rises to meet the hook, taking wax from the reservoir and applying it to the thread. The operation of this spoon is best produced by the movement of a shaft, and to this end a rockshaft, L', Fig. 61, is arranged parallel with the shaft H, and from it an arm, L2, extends partially over the slot h5, through which the stud h4 passes. The under side of this arm L2 is clearly seen in Fig. 3, and rests on the stud h4, so that when the shaft H is in its rear position the arm L2 will be elevated, as will also the spoon L, but as the shaft H advances the arm L2 falls off from the stud, because of the incline upon its under side, as seen in Fig. 3, thus leaving the rock-shaft L' free to turn and depress the spoon L into the wax, this depression being produced by a spring applied to the rock-shaft.

To insure the engagement of the hook h" with the loop, a pair of fingers, n n, are arranged upon a lever, N the said lever being pivoted at a'. (See Fig. l.) This lever Nextends to the rear Iand receives a vibrating movement from a cam, N2, Fig. 3, which lowers and raises the fingers-say as from the position shown in Fig. 5 to that seen in Fig.. 6, and this depression occurs while the needle is in its most advanced position. (See Fig. 6.) These fingers in their normal condition are closed, as seen in Fig. 7, sufficient to take the thread, as seen in Fig 5, and are made with inclines n2 upon their inner surface. Between these ngers a projection, n3, extends and lies stationary in the path of the inclines n2. As the fingers descend from the position shown in Fig. 7 to that shown in Fig. 8 the inclines a2 pass onto the projection n3, thus forcing the lower end of the fingers apart, as seen in Fig. 8, one each side the needle. Then the fingers rise before the hook la7 begins to turn, and-in rising grasp the thread that lies upon Fig. 5, so that the hook lf is sure to pass within the loop and take the thread. This raising of the loop is also advantageous in that it insures the passage of the shuttle through it, whereas if the threadwere not thus raised the shuttle might not pass through the loop.

After the thread has been waxed the shuttle, advancing, naturally takes the loop from ,the hook; but to insure the proper removal of the loop from the hook afinger, n4, is attached to the shuttle-carrier, as seen in Fig. 9, which runs in close proximity to the hook and forces the loop from the hook before the shuttle shall have passed fully through the loop.

After drawing up the stitch, and before the needle begins to advance, or while it is advancing, it is desirable to takethe thread between the needle and the shiittle out of the Way to prevent possibility of its loopin 0f around the needle or otherwise obstructing tie wjork. To this end a lever, P, is hung, preferably, on the presser-bar P', and to this lever a vertical vibratory movement is imparted by the needlearm to turn it down from the position seen in broken lines, Fig. 10, to the position s een in solid lines, and return. The forward end of this arm f'orms substantiallyapair of nippersthat is to say, on the side of the lever P there is a thin plate-spring, P2, and the ends of both the lever and spring turn downward, as seen of' the lever, and Fig. l2 an end View. The space between the spring P2 and the end of' the lever is directly over the thread when drawn taut. As the needle-arm returns and draws the thread taut the end of the lever is turned down, as seen in Fig. 10, striking the thread between the needle and shuttle, forcing the spring away from the lever, thus causing the spring and end of the lever to embrace the thread like a pair of nippers; then, as the needle advances, the lever returns and raises the thread within the grasp of the nippers un til the advancing needle forces it from their grasp again.

It is preferable to arrange the lever P 011 the presser-foot, in order that it may move to and from the work with it; but the time for the operation of the lever P or its nippers must always be the same relative to the movement of the needle. To accomplish this object a lever, R, is hung to the end of the bed,

the top of` the needle and' raise it, as seen in in Figs. 11 and l2, Fig. 1l showing a top view IOO IOS

supporting the needle mechanism, as seen in Figs. 2 and 13. This lever extends from its pivot r to beneath the lever P, and forms a long surface, on which the rear end of the said lever P may ride. The end of the lever R is inclined to the path of the needle, as seen in Fig. 10, and on the needle-bar is a stud or projectioinr?, on which the end of the lever R rests, as also seen in Fig. l0, and so soon as the needle begins to move forward, theincline on the lever R rides down, as indicated in broken lines in Fig. 10, permitting the forward end of the lever P to rise Aby the force of the spring R' bearing on the rear arm of said lever P, and when the needle-bar returns the stud r2 will strike the incline on the lever R and cause it to rise, raising the rear end and depressin g the forward end of the lever P, as and for the purpose before described. The top or surface of the lever R is long enough to allow the lever P to be moved forward or back with the presser-foot, and so that the lever R always acts upon the lever P irrespective of its position.

S is the feeddog, which terminates in a point or awl, S'. (See Fig. 2.) This feed-dog has imparted to it a movement to and from the work, and also forward and back, so that, advancing to the work, the point enters the work sufficiently far to make its hold firm, and may partially or entirely puncture the work for the entrance of the needle, and then, advancing, takes the work with it. The means for imparting these movements to the feed-bar are shown enlarged in Fig. 14, side view, and Fig. 15, plan view.

The feed-dog S is attached to the feed-bar S2, and this bar extends back and turns in rear of the shaft l), and there engages with a cam-groove in the side of the cam-disk S3 by means of the stud S4. This stud, working through a slot, S5, in the frame, receives at that point areciprocating' movement only, and that in a radial line from the shaft.

The feed-bar lies in a groove, S6, in the frame. This groove is wider than the bar, so as to allow of a horizontal or transverse movement of said bar, the groove in the upper face of the cam-disk S3 only imparting the longitudinal movement to the bar which carries the point S to and from the workr To impart the transverse or forward-andback movement, and to regulate t-he same, a lever, T, is arranged below the groove SG. and

extends back, engaging with a groove in theunder side of the cam-disk S3 at a point at the side of the shaft D, so that the cam-groove, by engaging a stud on lever T, will move the said lever T at that point transversely toward and from the shaft. To retain this lever in its position and prevent longitudinal movement the lever is offset, so as to form an angular portion, T. This part T lies in a transverse slot in the frame, which allows of its free movement transversely, but contines it longitudinally. This is necessitated because the fulcrum t is adjustable longitudinally. TheV other end of the lever T engages With the feed-bar S2, as shown in Figs. 14 and 15. The

lever T, therefore, turning on its fulcrum t, will, with its connection with the feed-bar S2, impart to the said bar a vibratory or forwardand-back movement necessary to produce the feed.

The fulcrum t consists of a bolt the head lof which forms said fulcrum t and lies freely sary that the feed-bar should at all times reach the same point forwardthat is, so that the puncture made by the point will always be moved to a position coincident with the path of the needle, and a variation be made only in the extent of its rear movement. It is therefore necessary that the slot T2 in the frame and the slot T3 in the lever should be in the same line when the feed is in its most forward position, as seen in Fig. 15, the two slots being' there shown in broken lines, and the line of the slot at that point must be parallel with the line drawn from the point where the lever' engages with the cam to the point where it engages with the feed-bar. As here shown, the slot TZ in the frame is inclined to the central line of the feed-bar, and this is generally preferable, because it enables the arrangement ofthe parts in a more compact or narrow space, and also makes the action more direct.

In Fig. 16 is shown a view of the needle 011 the under side, in Fig. 17 a view on the upper side, and in Fig. 1S a longitudinal section. On the under side of the needle is a longitudinal groove, e, through which the thread passes to the eye c. This eye, instead of being at right angles, as is the usual construction, is diagonal, as seen in 1S, and produces substantially a tubular eye running from the groove e in rear of the eye to a spiral groove, e2, forward of the eye, as seen in Fig. 17. This diagonal or tubular eye renders the needle stronger than when made at right angles, as in the usual construction, in addition io the advantage of very much reducing the cuttingstrain upon the thread at the eye.

The object of making the groove forward of the eye in a spiral form instead of longitudinal, as in the usual construction, is to prevent cutting the thread in the passage of the needle through the leather. l

The thread being necessarily large, the groove must be of corresponding size. ln the use of a needle having a longitudinal groove it is found that, in piercing the leather and on the return ot' the needle, that portion of the `leather over the groove will press down into ythe groove and upon-"the thread, creating IOO IIO

IZO

into the groove, and thus produces a round hole, instead ofa hole with a tongue, as in a straight groove. This construction also allows the thread to draw in nearly acstraight line to the axis of the needle.

Instead of the shuttle, it will be understood that other devices may be applied-as, for instance, a looper-to produce a chain -stitch, using only the needle-thread; but in that case the same relative position of the wax-reservoir must be maintained.

It will be understood that the parts of the machine are made adjustable, and that it is provided with the usual thread-tension.

The jack for holding the shoe is shown 41n Fig. l., and in detail Figs. 19 and 20. This consists of a carriage, d, on which clamping devices d and d2 are arranged to securely grasp and hold the boot or shoe. This carriage is made to move longitudinally7 on a guide, (Z3, (see Fig. 19,) and this guide is hung by a balljoint, d4, to a head, d5. This head is rounded upon its face neXt the guide d3, but is longitudinally straight. This allows, the carriage d to be rocked on the said headin a direction transverse to the said head, and the ball-joint allows the carriage to.be turned in a hori- Zontal plane entirely round, if necessary, and at the same time it may be rocked over the head. This head is adjustable to different inclinations by being hung to a block, d6, from which a spindle, dT, extends downward, and is provided with a set-nut, d, between which and the head d5 is a socket, di), so that the nut, bearing against the socket, forces it hard against the head, so as to clamp it at any angle to which it may be set, and this angle deijnes the position at which the sole of the shoe shall be presented to the needle, and maintains the same angle at all points around the sole.

The spindle Z7 is arranged in a socketed bar, d10, provided with a set-screw, d, by means of which the elevation of the head may be adjustedor ihe head set at any desirable elevation, to adapt the jack to varioiis sizes and classes ot' work; and that the jack may be always held up to its work, the socketed bar d10 passes between longitudinal guides rr, and is supported on one end by a lever, r', to the other end of which a spring or weight is applied, the tendency of which is to force the jack upward, so that if the shoe is moved to different points in the sole, those points will be held with the same 4force against the presserfoot.

At the time the stitch is to be taken it is desirable that the jack should be lirmly held. To this end a shaft, r3, is arranged parallel with the guides r, to which shaft a rocking movement is imparted by means of a cam, r4, onl the shaft D. In the guide r, neXt the shaft r3, is a slide, rf, and on the shaft r3 are cams r6, (represented as flat surfaces on the shaft and corresponding projections for the slide,) which, as the shaft rocks in one direction, force the slide r (seen in Fig. 20, which is a horizontal section through the guides r, showing the slotted plate which forms the clamp r) against the socketed bar d'0 and clamp said bar im movably against the opposite guide, and on returning the shaft releases the slide, leaving the socketed bar free. This clamping movement occurs just before the needle enters the work and the releasing immediately afier the needle leaves the work, so that during the time the needle is in the work the head is securely held, except as for its rocking position, that being governed by the hand of the operator.

lt will be observed that the pressure which holds the shoe up to the work is, because. of the rocking and sliding movement of the jack, always directly or nearly in line with the upward pressurethat is, over the point of connection between the lever r and the socketed har d10. This direction of pressure remains constant at all points around the shoe as presented totheneedle. Consequently theindirect strain upon the jack or shoe found in the usual construction is avoided, and the operator has nothing to do but simply guide the shoe, the holding and the proper relative position being produced by the movement of the jack.

At the toe end of the jack a stop, u, is arranged, so that when the toe is reached the said stop will bring up against the end of the guide d,- then the stitching aroundfthe toe is done by simply turning the jack on its joint d4, and with a slight rocking motion the stitching around the toe is produce/thas if the jack were hung upon substantially a4 fixed center, pro-` ducing more perfect work than when the guides at the needle are relied upon, as in the usual arrangement of holding-jacks.

I claiml. The combination of a reciprocating threadcarrying needle, devices adapted to operate in connection therewith to form a stitch, a heated wax-pan. and a reciprocating hook, which advances to take the needle-thread and carry it IOO IOS

IIO

to the wax-pan, with mechanism for connecting and operating the parts specified, substantially as described.

2. The combination of areciprocatin g threadcarrying needle, devices adapted to operate in' connection therewith to form a stitch, a heated wax-pan, a reciprocating hook which advances to take the needle-thread and carry it to the wax-pan, and a pair of nippers to raise the needle-thread to facilitate engagement of the said hook, with mechanism for connecting and operating the parts specified, substantially as described.

The combination of a reciprocating threadcarrying needle, devices adapted to operate in connection therewith to form a stitch, a heated wax-pan, a reciprocating hook which advances to take the needle-thread and carry it to the wax-pan, and a lifter to take the wax from the pan to the thread, with mechanism for connecting and operating the parts speciied, substantially as described.

4. The combination of areciprocatingthreadcarrying needle, devices adapted to operate in connection therewith to form a stitch, a heated wax-pan, a reciprocating hook which advances to take the needle-thread and carry it to the wax-pan, and a cast-E moving with the shuttlc-carrier to take the thread from the hook after waxing, with mechanism for connecting and operating the parts specified, substantially as described.

5. The combination of areciprocating threadcarrying needle7 devices adapted to operate in zo connection therewith to form a stitch, aheated wax-pan, a reciproeatin g hook which advances to take the needle-thread and carry it to the wax-pan, and a pair of nippers arranged to take the needle-thread forward of the needle when drawn taut and raise it from the path of the needle as the needle advances, with mechanism for connecting and operating the parts specified, substantially as described.

6. The combination of a stitch-making mechanism, a carriage to support the boot or shoe, said carriage beingadapted to slide longitudinally, an adjustable guide, an adjustable head to support said guide,its surface rounded transversely to allow the rocking movement of the carriage, and a support for said head7 substantially as described.

CHAS. F. BOSWORTH.

Witnesses: c

J oHN E. EARLE, H. A. KITsoN. 

